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Rhodes Dodecanese Guide Page 13

West of Lindos

To the west of Lindos is Lardos, which is an appealing village in a valley with a nice square, though definitely on the tourist track.It suffered terrible floods during the winter rainy seasons after the disastrous fires of the 1980s upstream.

Keskinto, to the west, was the site of an observatory which is believed to have produced a mechanism likened to a computer, discovered at the bottom of the sea near the tiny island of Antikythera. Moni Thari , founded in the 9th century, and is thus the oldest surving religious building on the island of Rhodes, is located 2km from Laerma (in turn 12km inland from Lindos) on the Profila road. There are 12th century frescoes here, in places four layers thick. Lardos Bay has sand dunes, reeds, and marshes, though you must go to neighboring beaches to escape encroaching tourism. Especially recommended are Glystra, in a sheltered cove, with umbrellas and a snack bar. Though Kiotari has hotels, its beach goes on for miles. Until the 1990s it was virtually unknown to tourists, until the Orthodox church began selling off its holdings in the area. It is frequented by mostly Germans and Italians.

The medieval village of Asklipio is on a hill, beneath the ruins of a crusader castle, while the church of the Monastery of Metamorofosi dates from 1060, and has 15th century frescoes depicting Old Testament stories.

Yennadhi is a farming village with a dark sand and pebble beach, gear for water sports and sunbeds and three tavernas a little way in from the beach. Aghios Yiorghios also has water-sports.

Lachania 10km south of Yennadhi and a little inland is a village taken over by artists, mostly German ex-patriates., many of whom restored houses abandoned after a post-war earthquake in exchange for free rent. There are some nice fountains in the square, one of them with an Ottoman inscription. Rooms are available as well as some entire houses, rented out by the Orthodox priest Papa Yiorgos, who also has a taverna, one of two good ones in the village.

Plimiri (at Cape Vigla) has a new marina and fish farm as well as nice unspoiled beaches. Nearby is the church of the Zoodhochou Pighis with ancient Corinthian columns. The beach (which has no name) which stretches for 2km to the south of Cape Vigla is one of the last turtle nesting sites in the Dodecanese. Hopefully, by now it has been granted official protection, though up until very recently some simple signs were all that indicated the reasons for not disturbing the area, especially at night. Aghios Pavlos (St. Paul) inland from Plimiri, was also built by the Italians as a 'model farm. It is from here that you can take an unmarked dirt road to the beach where turtles nest, parking of course, off of the beach itself.

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